I spent the morning in Trebinje today across the border in BiH (Bosnia Herzegovina) a 24km drive inland from Dubrovnik. Last time I was there was 6yrs ago when it was a grim and miserable town, but now the atmosphere had picked up a lot. Shopping centre, renovated houses and offices gave the area a much better feel. Of course the wonderful autumn l weather helped. Leafy squares with locals selling their wares and numerous cafe bars with people sipping coffee enjoying the sunshine.